It’s common to see surfing as more than just a sport. There are so many positive things that we associate with the act of riding a wave, playing in the ocean, and just enjoying being out in nature. But how does it all actually make you a better person?
1. Resilience and Mental Strength
Even if you don’t think about it, we all face hard times in our surfing life. Falling is a regular part of the activity, getting smashed by waves in the process. It can even be tough just to paddle out to the lineup some days. But in spite of that, we keep going until we (hopefully) become proficient in catching and riding waves. Learning any new skill requires a massive dose of resilience. Resilience is the ability to cope with change, and maybe you’ve noticed how things seem to change really fast when we are learning to surf.
When we are learning any new skill we will likely fail often. Period. It’s why we create the 10,000-hour rule for mastering any craft. This 10,000-hour rule is simply our expectation of how long it will take to go from incompetence to virtuoso. We f
ail, we try again, and then we will fail some more. Just like training our resilience, we fall and we get up. We are driven by an uncontrollable will to do it right.
Some might say that we are obsessed but we prefer the word determine or focused.
3. Surfing Connects You With Your Surroundings
When you go out to the ocean it becomes easy to search for signs of life and vibrancy everywhere. We try to understand the wind, the swell, the tides, how the waves are breaking, and just how all of this connects. This kind of sensorial experience makes us more practical human beings.
4. It Makes Aware of the Beauty All Around
It’s almost impossible
to be in the ocean and not find yourself in awe of your surrounds. Whether it’s the way the waves breaks, how the sun rises or sets on the horizon, or even just gazing at the empty winter beach, there are always moments to sit in awe of the natural world. And in our deepest memories, many of us hold on to the moments and the days where everything about those surroundings seemed perfect. It’s no coincidence that moments like these make us feel the most alive.
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