How Meditation Saved My Surfing

Yesterday I was honored to have on of my articles featured in one of the most important surf pages of the world!
The Inertia

Come check it out!
How Meditation Saved My Surf

Here goes a small excerpt :

I’m not going to lie, as much as I love the ocean, I started surfing to get the attention of a girl. I know I’m not the only person to have done that, even if I am part of the small minority who would admit it.

I’m also not lying when I say  that it was only a few days in that I started falling in love…with surfing, not the girl. It only took a few sessions to see surfing as a lifestyle more than a sport; a lifestyle that I could see myself enjoying for the rest of my life. I was 21 at the time.

Weeks went by, my skills improved accordingly and the buzz and excitement that I got from surfing was higher than ever. I’m still not the most skilled surfer today, but even from that beginning, I’ve always been one of the happiest surfers. It was about two years in that I started taking surfing more seriously, taking on heavier surf along Portugal’s shores.

It was during this time that, although I was used to the wipe outs and washing machine tumbles in the summer, the strength and power of the winter months proved to be ruthless. And on one rainy November day, I was handed my absolute worst wipeout. The struggle was real, and like many of us have experienced once or twice, the thought I might die did cross my mind.

Want to read more? Come check it out!
How Meditation Saved My Surf

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